Illes Medes: Spain's Underwater Paradise on Costa Brava

The first time I descended into the waters surrounding the Illes Medes, I understood why divers speak of this place in reverent tones. A dusky grouper the size of a small child emerged from beneath a rocky overhang, regarded me with the indifference of a creature that has never known a fisherman's hook, then drifted past close enough to touch. In forty years of protection, the marine life here has forgotten its fear of humans.

These seven small islands rising from the Mediterranean a mile off L'Estartit's shore have become something remarkable: one of the most biodiverse marine ecosystems in the Western Mediterranean. Since fishing was banned in 1983, the Illes Medes have transformed from overfished rocks into an underwater cathedral teeming with life. Groupers grow to 60 kilograms here. Barracuda school in the hundreds. Gorgonian sea fans paint the walls in oranges and purples that seem impossible in these northern Mediterranean waters.

But the Illes Medes aren't just for experienced divers. Glass-bottom boats glide over the reserve daily, offering windows into this underwater world. Snorkelers float above meadows of Posidonia seagrass that shelter more than a thousand species. And the town of L'Estartit that serves as the gateway to these islands has its own charms—a kilometer of sandy beach, excellent seafood restaurants, and the dramatic backdrop of the Montgrí massif rising behind it all.

A Brief History of the Islands

Long before the Illes Medes became a marine sanctuary, they served a very different purpose. Their position just offshore made them perfect for pirates—close enough to launch raids on the coast, far enough to retreat before defenders could organize. For centuries, the islands were a genuine threat to the coastal towns of the Empordà.

In the 1400s, the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem attempted to establish order by building a fortress on Meda Gran, the largest island. The ruins still stand, though the pirates proved harder to dislodge than the knights had hoped. The strategic importance of the islands continued through the Napoleonic Wars, when they became contested territory between Spain and France.

The lighthouse that still stands on Meda Gran was constructed between 1866 and 1868, making it the last lighthouse opened during Queen Isabel II's reign—just two months before revolution forced her into exile. A lighthouse keeper lived on the island until 1932; today, solar panels power the automated beacon that guides ships through these waters.

The transformation into a marine reserve began in 1983, when the Catalan government prohibited all fishing around the islands. The results exceeded anyone's expectations. Fish populations exploded. Species that had become rare returned in abundance. In 2010, the Illes Medes were incorporated into the larger Parc Natural del Montgrí, les Illes Medes i el Baix Ter, protecting 80 square kilometers of mountain, coast, and wetland ecosystems.

The Seven Islands

The archipelago consists of seven islets covering just 23 hectares of surface area. Landing on any of them is strictly prohibited to protect both the marine and terrestrial ecosystems, but understanding their geography helps appreciate what lies beneath the waves.

Meda Gran is the largest at 18.7 hectares, rising 75 meters above sea level. The lighthouse and fortress ruins sit atop this island, and some of the most spectacular dive sites surround its shores.

Meda Petita sits just southeast of its larger sibling. Between the two islands, underwater tunnels and caves create the dramatic topography that makes diving here so remarkable.

The remaining five islands—Carall Bernat, Tascons Grossos, Medallot, Tascons Petits, and Ferranelles—are smaller rocky outcrops, each with their own underwater character. Carall Bernat's dramatic vertical walls attract photographers, while the shallower waters around Ferranelles offer perfect conditions for snorkelers.

Diving the Illes Medes

The Illes Medes consistently ranks among Spain's top diving destinations, and once you've experienced it, you'll understand why. Twenty years of strict protection have created conditions rarely found elsewhere in the Mediterranean.

Why Diving Here Is Special

The combination of factors that make this reserve exceptional includes depths ranging from surface to 50 meters, underwater caves and tunnels carved through the limestone, walls covered in colorful gorgonian sea fans, and marine life that has grown accustomed to divers rather than fearful of them.

Visibility typically exceeds 20 meters, and in summer months can stretch to 30 meters or more. Water temperatures range from a brisk 14°C in winter to a comfortable 24°C in August—warm enough for a 5mm wetsuit in summer, though most divers prefer 7mm for extended bottom times.

Marine Life You'll Encounter

The stars of the show are the dusky groupers—massive fish that can reach 1.5 meters in length and weigh up to 60 kilograms. Before protection, groupers this size had been fished to near extinction in the Mediterranean. Now they cruise past divers with complete unconcern, occasionally following groups through entire dives.

Other large species include moray eels peering from crevices, conger eels in the deeper caves, barracuda schooling in impressive numbers, and eagle rays gliding along the sandy channels between reefs. The elusive sunfish appears occasionally, and dolphins sometimes escort boats returning from dives.

The walls themselves are covered with life: red and orange gorgonian sea fans, yellow cluster anemones, nudibranchs in improbable colors, and octopuses hunting through the rocks. Below, meadows of Posidonia oceanica seagrass shelter juveniles of countless species—this Mediterranean endemic plant is considered one of the most important ecosystems in these waters.

Top Dive Sites

La Vaca (The Cow) features the reserve's most famous underwater tunnel—a passage through an entire islet that emerges into a cathedral-like chamber. Large groupers, moray eels, and barracuda congregate here. The swim-through is suitable for Advanced Open Water divers and above.

El Dofí (The Dolphin) contains an astonishing marine cave where walls are covered in corals, gorgonians, and tropical-looking fish creating kaleidoscopic colors. The cave entrance starts at about 12 meters, making it accessible to most certified divers.

Pedra de Déu (God's Rock) offers vast rock formations ideal for observing schools of fish, octopuses, and the occasional ray. Good for all certification levels with areas ranging from 8 to 40 meters.

Tascó Gros features shallow caves with spectacular rock formations and countless hiding spots where reef fish shelter. Perfect for newer divers or those who prefer not to go deep.

Diving Regulations and Practicalities

The reserve strictly limits diving to protect the ecosystem. A maximum of 450 divers are permitted per day, with an annual cap of 74,224 dives distributed among licensed dive centers. This means booking ahead during summer months is essential.

All diving must be done through one of L'Estartit's licensed dive centers, which participate in a rotation system using 13 buoyed mooring sites. Independent diving is not permitted. Centers include well-established operations like Xaloc Dive, Unisub, Diving Center Les Illes, and Stolli's Diving Center.

Requirements include: a minimum Open Water Diver certification, diving accident insurance with third-party coverage, and a medical certificate signed by a doctor showing fitness for diving (valid for two years). Most dive centers can arrange insurance for those without it.

Strict environmental rules apply: no touching or feeding marine life, no contact with walls or seabed, and no anchoring—only buoyed moorings may be used.

Snorkeling and Glass-Bottom Boats

You don't need a diving certification to experience the Illes Medes. Two excellent alternatives bring the underwater world to everyone.

Snorkeling Excursions

Several dive centers offer snorkeling trips to the reserve, typically costing around €30 for a 2-3 hour excursion. Boats take snorkelers to protected areas where they can enter the water directly—landing on the islands is prohibited even for snorkelers.

The rocky areas visible from the surface are home to damselfish, seabreams, painted combers, and wrasses. Patient snorkelers floating quietly above rocky overhangs often spot the distinctive shape of groupers lurking below. The clarity of the water means you can see remarkably deep even from the surface.

Glass-Bottom Boat Tours

Nautilus pioneered glass-bottom boat tours to the Medes Islands and operates a fleet of five vessels with large underwater viewing windows. Tours circle the islands, pausing over the most life-rich areas so passengers can watch fish, sea fans, and occasionally larger creatures through the glass floor.

Barca Núria offers a more intimate experience aboard a traditional 9-meter Catalan fishing boat built on L'Estartit beach in 1942. Maximum capacity is 20 passengers, and the tour includes sailing past impressive coastal cliffs and hidden coves before reaching the islands.

Glass-bottom tours typically cost €25-30 and last about an hour. Combination tours that include snorkeling time add about €10-15 to the price.

L'Estartit: Gateway to the Islands

The town of L'Estartit has grown up around its role as the launch point for Medes Islands excursions, but it merits attention in its own right. Unlike some Costa Brava resort towns, L'Estartit has maintained a working fishing port alongside its tourism industry, giving it authenticity that's increasingly rare along this coast.

Beaches

Platja Gran stretches for a full kilometer from the port northward, one of the longest sandy beaches on the Costa Brava. The beach is fully serviced with lifeguards, sunbed rentals, showers, and beach bars. Families appreciate the gentle slope into the water and the protection the Medes Islands provide from open-sea swells.

Els Griells Beach lies near the Ter Vell natural preserve and offers excellent conditions for windsurfing and water skiing. The views back toward the Medes Islands and the Montgrí mountains make this a photographer's favorite.

La Platera Beach hides within a natural preserve, requiring some effort to reach but rewarding visitors with relative solitude even in high summer.

Between L'Estartit and L'Escala to the north, several small coves—Cala Ferriol, Cala Pedrosa, and Cala Calella—offer rocky beaches and exceptional snorkeling close to shore.

Activities Beyond the Water

Montgrí Castle and Natural Park

The Illes Medes are part of the larger Parc Natural del Montgrí, les Illes Medes i el Baix Ter, which extends inland to encompass the dramatic Montgrí massif. At its summit sits Montgrí Castle, built between 1294 and 1301 by King Jaume II as a strategic fortress against the County of Empúries.

The castle was never completed—political circumstances changed before construction finished—but its substantial walls still stand, offering 360-degree panoramic views that encompass the Bay of Roses, the Pyrenees, the Medes Islands, and on clear days, the distant peak of Canigó.

The hike to the castle from Torroella de Montgrí takes 30-40 minutes via the Camí dels Tres Pins trail. It's steep but well-maintained, with the reward of those extraordinary views and the atmospheric ruins themselves.

Hiking Trails

The natural park contains 35 marked trails covering terrain from coastal paths to mountain routes. The GR 92 long-distance footpath passes through, following the Mediterranean coast and offering spectacular clifftop walking.

Popular routes include:

• Montgrí Castle trail (4.2 km round trip, 257m elevation gain)
• Coastal path from L'Estartit to L'Escala (approximately 12 km)
• Baix Ter wetlands circuit for birdwatching

Kayaking and Paddleboarding

Rental shops along L'Estartit's beach offer single, double, triple, and even quadruple kayaks for exploring the coastline. Experienced paddlers can kayak to the outer edge of the marine reserve (though entering the protected zone requires joining an organized excursion). Stand-up paddleboards are equally popular for exploring the calmer waters near shore.

Torroella de Montgrí

The medieval town of Torroella de Montgrí sits just 6 kilometers inland and deserves a visit. Its Gothic architecture, cobblestone streets, and excellent Monday morning market make it a perfect half-day excursion. The town has hosted an important classical music festival since 1981, with concerts held in the 14th-century church of Sant Genís and other historic venues.

Where to Eat

L'Estartit's dining scene reflects its dual identity as both a fishing port and a tourist destination. The best restaurants serve genuinely fresh seafood prepared in traditional Catalan style, often with views over the water toward the Medes Islands.

Top Restaurant Recommendations

Restaurant La Sal commands prime position on the seafront promenade with a terrace facing the sea. Their rice dishes—paellas and arrossos—are considered among the best in town, prepared with the expertise that comes from decades of perfecting traditional recipes. The seafood tapas make an excellent light meal or prelude to something more substantial. Moderate to high prices.

Restaurante Xavi offers something more innovative, with creative preparations that build on traditional Catalan foundations. It's consistently rated as one of L'Estartit's finest restaurants, worth reserving ahead on summer evenings. High prices.

Restaurant Rosamar on Passeig Marítim serves classic seafood and paella that draws praise from both tourists and locals. Their paella has been called one of the best on the Costa Brava—high praise in a region that takes rice dishes seriously. Moderate prices.

Cal Tet on Carrer Santa Anna specializes in tapas, offering perhaps the best selection in town for those who prefer to graze through several small plates. The atmosphere is casual and convivial. Budget to moderate prices.

Restaurant Bravo on Passeig Marítim is known particularly for their black rice paella (arròs negre), colored and flavored with squid ink. It's a traditional dish that looks dramatic and tastes of the sea. Moderate prices.

Traditional Dishes to Try

Arròs a la cassola – A Catalan rice dish cooked in an earthenware casserole, typically with seafood, pork, or both. Less soupy than paella, more intense in flavor.

Suquet de peix – A fisherman's stew that varies with the day's catch, thickened with a picada of almonds, garlic, and parsley. Perhaps the most authentic taste of the Costa Brava.

Gambes de Palamós – The famous red prawns from nearby Palamós, often served simply grilled with just salt and olive oil to let their remarkable sweetness shine.

Anxoves de L'Escala – Salt-cured anchovies from the neighboring town, an essential component of Catalan cuisine and excellent with bread rubbed with tomato.

Where to Stay

Hotels

Hotel Les Illes offers the convenience of an on-site diving center, making it the obvious choice for serious divers. Rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious, but the location and dive-focused amenities compensate. Mid-range prices.

Hotel Panorama earns consistent praise for its breakfasts and views. Rooms from around €120 per night in high season. Mid-range to upper prices.

Hotel Santa Anna is popular with families and couples, centrally located with easy access to both beach and restaurants. Mid-range prices.

Hotel Nereida features an outdoor pool and rooms with balconies, located about 300 meters from the beach. Mid-range prices.

Camping

The L'Estartit area offers excellent camping options for those who prefer sleeping closer to nature—or closer to their budget.

Camping Castell Montgrí is the largest local site, with three pool areas (including water slides), restaurant, and a free shuttle bus to the beach. Tent and caravan pitches available alongside bungalow rentals.

Camping Rifort and Camping Ter offer similar facilities at slightly smaller scales, both within walking distance of town and beach.

For campervans and motorhomes, a dedicated area in the town center provides clean facilities including a disposal station.

Holiday Rentals

Apartments and villas are available through major rental platforms, offering good value for families and groups staying a week or more. Book well ahead for July and August.

Practical Information

Getting There

From Barcelona (140 km):

• By bus: Moventis operates direct services from Barcelona's Estació d'Autobusos Nord to L'Estartit. The journey takes about 2 hours 20 minutes, with two departures daily. First bus departs at 7:30 AM, last at 9:15 PM. Tickets cost €29-45.
• By car: Take the AP-7 motorway north, exit at Verges or La Bisbal, then follow signs to L'Estartit. Allow about 1 hour 45 minutes without traffic.

From Girona (45 km):

• By bus: AMPSA buses run directly from Girona bus station to L'Estartit, costing about €5 each way. This is the most practical option for those flying into Girona Airport.
• By car: Take the C-66 toward Palafrugell, then the GI-641 to Torroella de Montgrí and on to L'Estartit. About 45 minutes.

Best Time to Visit

For diving: July through September offers the warmest water (22-24°C), best visibility, and peak marine life activity. However, diving is possible year-round for those with appropriate exposure protection.

For beaches: June through September guarantees swimming-friendly water temperatures above 20°C. July and August are busiest.

For hiking: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) provide ideal temperatures for walking the Montgrí trails without summer's heat.

For avoiding crowds: May, June, and September offer excellent conditions with significantly fewer tourists than the July-August peak.

Local Markets

Torroella de Montgrí hosts its weekly market every Monday morning. This is a proper local market rather than a tourist affair, with stalls selling produce, clothing, household goods, and regional products. Arrive before 11 AM for the best selection.

Money-Saving Tips

• The beach and hiking trails are free—some of Costa Brava's best experiences cost nothing.
• Pack a picnic from Torroella's Monday market instead of eating every meal at restaurants.
• Book diving packages (multiple dives) rather than single dives for significant per-dive savings.
• Visit in shoulder season (May-June, September) when accommodation prices drop by 30-40%.
• Glass-bottom boats offer a budget-friendly way to see the marine reserve if diving isn't in your plans.

Festivals and Events

Fira de Pirates i Corsaris (Pirates and Corsairs Fair) transforms L'Estartit into a pirate port for a weekend each September (typically the last weekend of the month). The festival commemorates the town's historic battles against Mediterranean pirates with theatrical performances, naval battle reenactments, fire parades, artisanal markets, and children's activities. It's a genuinely entertaining event that brings the town's history alive.

Festival de Música de Torroella de Montgrí has presented classical music in the medieval town since 1981, with concerts in atmospheric venues including the Gothic church of Sant Genís. The festival typically runs in July and August.

Festa Major de Sant Genís is Torroella de Montgrí's main annual festival, held around August 22, featuring traditional Catalan celebrations including gegants (giants), sardana dancing, and correfoc fire runs.

Quick Facts

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Illes Medes worth visiting?

Absolutely. The Illes Medes marine reserve is consistently rated as one of the best diving destinations in Spain and the Western Mediterranean. Even for non-divers, the glass-bottom boats, snorkeling excursions, and the beautiful town of L'Estartit make this a worthwhile Costa Brava destination. The combination of protected marine life, dramatic underwater topography, and easy accessibility from Barcelona creates an experience you won't find elsewhere on the Spanish coast.

How do you pronounce Illes Medes?

In Catalan, it's pronounced "EE-yuhs MEH-duhs" (the "ll" in Catalan sounds like a "y"). In Spanish, you might hear "EE-lyes MEH-des." Locals will understand either pronunciation, though using the Catalan version shows cultural awareness.

Can you visit the Medes Islands?

You cannot set foot on the islands themselves—landing is strictly prohibited to protect both marine and terrestrial ecosystems. However, you can dive and snorkel in the surrounding waters (through licensed operators), take glass-bottom boat tours around the islands, and enjoy views from L'Estartit's beach and the surrounding hills.

Do I need a diving certification to see the marine reserve?

No. Glass-bottom boats offer excellent views of the underwater world without getting wet. Snorkeling excursions allow you to swim at the surface above the reserve. Only scuba diving requires certification (minimum Open Water Diver or equivalent).

When is the best time to dive at Illes Medes?

July through September offers the best conditions: warmest water (22-24°C), optimal visibility (often 20-30 meters), and peak marine life activity. However, diving is possible year-round. The dive season officially runs from March to December, though some centers operate through winter for those with appropriate thermal protection.

How do I book diving at Illes Medes?

Contact one of L'Estartit's licensed dive centers directly. All diving must go through licensed operators who participate in the permit rotation system. Popular centers include Xaloc Dive, Unisub, and Diving Center Les Illes. Book ahead in summer, as the daily diver limit (450) can be reached on busy days.

What marine life will I see at Illes Medes?

The reserve is famous for its large dusky groupers (up to 1.5 meters long), moray eels, barracuda schools, and colorful gorgonian sea fans. You might also encounter octopuses, eagle rays, nudibranchs, and dense schools of reef fish. The twenty years of protection have allowed populations to recover to levels rarely seen elsewhere in the Mediterranean.

Is L'Estartit good for families?

Yes. The main beach (Platja Gran) has a gentle slope, full lifeguard services, and calm waters protected by the offshore islands. Glass-bottom boats entertain children without requiring them to swim. The nearby Montgrí Castle makes an adventurous half-day hike for older children, and the Pirates Fair in September is specifically family-friendly.

This article was written by Mike Acler, Barcelona travel guide. Need to hire Barcelona travel guide for your trip?